Flowers
| Q - I am a homeowner in Sudbury, Ontario, Canada. I am looking for
some basics on different types of flowers for my yard. Some of these plants
must endure very hot sun, and, some must want to live in the shade of a very
large blue spruce in the front yard. Where can I get info about which flowers to
plant in each location? -- BV A - There are several sources containing the information you need. But a good place to start is at http://www.garden.com . The specific url for the information page is too long to list here, but you can get to it from the garden.com site. Also, most nursery catalogs and the labels on the plants you might see at nurseries should indicate the requirements for the plants. |
Q - Can you tell me what I am doing wrong to my poor green velvet alocasia. It recieves indirect light and room temp. of 75-85. It is not growing more leaves--the one that did come in shriveled and died, it never opened fully. Now a spath has appeared. the spadix looks fine, but the spathe had withered back. Am I overwatering this plant or does it need more nourishment?? Same thing with my caladium...I transplanted it and then the leaves started turning yellow, with glossiness near center,and the one spadix/spathe withered and died. Result of overwatering/underwatering or bugs? I appreciate your help! -- A.J. A - The green velvet alocasia has beautiful leaves--dark green arrow-shaped with light veins. The first thing I would do is check for spider mites because this plant is susceptible to spider mites. Also, be sure the water you use on it is distilled because sometimes the chemicals in tap water can injure the plants. I have never grown an alocasia, but I have read that they are happiest in a greenhouse environment. The plant requires a temperature over 70F in the summer and semi-shade. The soil should be kept moist in the spring, summer, and fall with high humidity. So misting the leaves is in order. Keeping the pot on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water might help keep the humidity level high around the plant. The requirements for winter are different in that the plant requires a temperature above 65 F and needs bright light. Again, look for spider mites and use distilled water. Read about the plant requirements at http://www.msue.msu.edu/msue/imp/modop/00000239.html It is possible that the caladium may be suffering stress from the transplanting. You may have sent it into premature dormancy. If that's the case, let it rest over the winter and start it again next spring. |
| I am thinking about growing cut flowers, annuals, perennials and bulbs, to
sell at farmer's markets in Wisconsin and Northern Illinois. Which flowers wilt the least
when out of water? I am thinking about the amount of time between when the customer buys
the flowers and gets them home and into water. Are there any preservatives which retard
wilting? -- MB A - Cut flower bouquets containing carnations, statice, a variety of chrysanthemums, gomphrena, daisies, and baby's breath are popular choices. Others are snapdragons, marigolds, stock, yarrows, asters, sages, and don't overlook foliage plants such as artimisia, ferns, hostas, and many of the herbs when making your arrangements. Bouquets of gladiolas also hold up well. I also like to use coral bells because they add a light, airy touch and will last for a long time. Zinnias are available in a wide variety of types, sizes, and colors. To make the flowers last longer, the following tips may help. When cutting, use sharp cutting tools, and cut flowers when the buds are half open as opposed to tightly closed buds or mature flowers. To make your flowers last longer, cut them in the morning (although some in the business recommend cutting them the day before you take them to market)and immediately plunge the stems into lukewarm water. Take them into the house and remove all lower leaves that might be under water and then put them into another container filled with a water/sugar/lemon mixture in the following proportions: 1/4 C sugar (dissolved in a little warm water), 2 T lemon juice, 1 gallon cold water. Add more cold water in a few hours as the flowers probably will have absorbed some of it. Keep the flowers in a cool place. Concerning the need to refrigerate the flowers, there seems to be a difference of opinion among those in the business, but all agree that the flowers do need to be kept cool and in the shade. Some believe that keeping the water cold (by adding small ice blocks at intervals) does an adequate job of cooling. Of course, when arranging the flowers, the buyer should trim each stem on a slant to the desired length, cutting off at least 1/4" of stem and arrange in a mixture of water, sugar, and lemon (or use 50% water and 50% non-diet lemon-lime soft drink for an easy fix). Changing the water mixture in the vase every two or three days is important. A magazine called "Growing for Market" (phone number is 800 307 8949) is recommended by some growers, as well as a book called "The Flower Grower" authored by Lynn Byczynski (who is also ed/pub of the magazine just mentioned). You might want to check Amazon for the book. I would also recommend that you check out the forums area at http://www.gardenweb.com -- I believe you might enjoy participating in that. Good luck with your venture! |
| Q
- I've a serious problem with my Corsican Mint and I would be grateful for
any advice. Two months ago I planted 3 small Corsican Mint plants in my
garden. They were all doing beautifully, spreading nicely, when all of the sudden
the biggest one developed a huge brown area on it. It appeared as if someone had dropped a
cup of loose soil on it but on closer inspection, that part of the plant appears
decayed...and the brown area is expanding outward from the middle. Now my second plant has
it, too. No pests are visible with the naked eye. I'm afraid my 3rd plant will
"catch" this malady, too! Any ideas??? I'm sick about this as these plants are
my favorites! Thank you so much...C.V.,Palos Verdes Estates, California A - Corsican mint is a "creeping mint" that grows in Zones 7-10 and it grows only 2 inches high. It is evergreen in warmer climates but will disapper when subjected to freezing temperatures and come back in the spring. I don't have any experience with this plant since I live in Zone 5 . You didn't say where you had these plants growing. You might check the growing conditions. According to the literature, it does best when planted in full sun or light shade in soil enriched with leaf mold or peat moss. It has a shallow root system and needs a well-drained but constantly moist soil. Sometimes mites can be a problem with mints, so you might check for those. Also, do you have a dog that might be attracted to the mint? |
Q - We have a peace lily that we have had for several years. After we left it outside last summer for a couple of weeks while we were on vacation so that the lawn sprinklers would water it, it has developed a strange problem, the leaves come out and are very healthy looking, then as they mature the tips gradually turn brown and then the whole leaf will turn brown and die. This is true of every leaf that comes out. We have tried several things, but nothing seems to stop the problem. Incidentally the plant has stopped blooming also. Any suggestions would be appreciated. --CM A - You did not elaborate on what things you have tried, but consider how you are watering it, how you are feeding it, and where it is sitting. For starters, I believe I would repot the plant. The soil needs to be well drained, so get a good commercial soil mix with peat moss and sand. The soil should be kept moist but not soggy. Allowing it to become too dry can cause the leaves to turn yellow. It needs to be fed every 2-3 months with a diluted (half strength) balanced liquid fertilizer (20-20-20), and over-feeding can cause the tips of the leaves to turn brown. I, too, enjoy my peace lily. I hope these suggestions help your plant recover! |
Q - Pansies. Each year I try starting plants under a grow light. When they get their first real leaves, they die. They are also very spindly even though they are 6 inches from the light. I end up buying some at Walmart each year. I water, pinch off the dead ones, and they still look awful by the end of July and die in August. It doesn't seem to matter whether I put them in pots or in the ground. I've tried sun, shade, partial shade and basement under grow lights. I LOVE pansies and want to have lots of them! A - Well, pansies prefer cool weather and can tolerate frost, so I'm not surprised that yours look awful by the end of July. Mine do, too, especially when the temperature gets above 90°! You are correct in regularly removing the dead blossoms to prolong the flowering . I keep my pansies the longest by planting them in the shade. You might consider starting next years pansies soon. The stores should be having some pretty plants soon. Actually I prefer to buy my plants rather than to start them from seed. You could enjoy some blossoms into the latter part of fall, and if the winter is mild, you will enjoy the first pansies of spring in your very own garden. Two years ago my mother picked a few pansies outside throughout the winter during warm spells, and this was in Zone 5! If you are intent on growing them from seed, though,be sure to use a sterile starting mix to prevent "damping off", a fungus disease which kills the seedlings. Chill seeds for 3-7 days in refrigerator before sowing and then germinate at 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit. Darkness is necessary for germination so cover seeds lightly after sowing, and keep the soil surface moist. Cover the seed flats of containers with black plastic or newspaper. They should germinate in 10-15 days. Now give them some light. They will need about 14 hours of light. A florescent bulb is best since it doesn't get as hot. Continue to keep the soil surface moist, and then transplant the seedlings to larger containers in about four weeks. Good luck. I hope this helps! |
Q - How long does it take for a Hydrangea vine to bloom. I planted it about 4 yrs. ago, it is getting quite large now and it has nice greenery each year, but I never get any flowers. I have it in part sun, part shade area. Thank you ...A Bedford reader A - I have not tried to grow a hydrangea vine, but the sources I checked indicated that you have to be patient because this vine requires quite a while to bloom. However, I understand that the blooming vine is worth the long wait. It looks like you have the light exposure OK. Also be sure the soil is moist. Pruning should be minimal and done in winter. |
Q - I ordered some plants this spring and have received them. However there were no planting instructions with them. I am wondering if it is all right to plant them since the ground is still pretty cold. They are the butterfly bush and elephant ears. Please advise if it is time to plant them. We sometimes have a frost in April in the Independence area. A - Although I don't know what kind of buddleia (butterfly bush) you purchased, most may be planted either spring or fall. In Zone 5, they die back in the winter and sprout from the ground each spring. You may plant yours anytime now. For the best flowering, plant the butterfly bush in a spot where the soil has had some manure dug deeply into it. Elephant ears add a tropical look to the garden. You should wait until after your last frost to plant it outside. However, if you want to get a headstart, plant it in a pot inside and then move it outside into the garden when the frost free date arrives. Plant the bulb with the the blunt end down in soil with good drainage and cover with 2-3 " of soil. Fertilize and water it regularly. They seem to grow well in sun or shade. You will need to dig the bulb in the fall after the leaves have died (but before cold weather!), cut the leaves back, and store the bulb in vermiculite during the winter. |
Q - When we moved in to our current house there were several yucca plants around the home. I have dug all of them up, I think they're ugly, but they keep coming back. I try to get all the roots but obviously I haven't been successful. Is there anything I can sprinkle on the plants/roots to cause them to wither and die without harming surrounding plants? A - It has always amazed me that this plant is actually cultivated in the landscape, but I suppose it is good that not everyone likes the same thing. Yucca is persistent when you want to get rid of it, so you must be persistent, too! Digging is good way to start, but as you have discovered, you don't get rid of it all at once. Every time you see a new shoot coming up, spray it with Roundup. It may take several applications. Brush killer, which is a little stronger, will work also. Both will go down into the roots and eventually you'll get rid of it all. To protect the plants nearby, treat the plant on a day when the wind is not blowing, cut the right sized hole in a newspaper and put it down over the area you want to spray so that only the targeted plant is showing. |
| Q - I received a very large peace lily at my mother's funeral. It was really
beautiful, but I cannot seem to keep the leaves from dying. I have used fertilizer spikes but they don't seem to help. I also don't know the correct biological
name for them so it is difficult to look for help in gardening books. There were no care
instructions with it, Can you help? A - The biological name for the peace lily is Spathiphyllum. For starters, you might consider repotting the plant because sometimes plants that arrive from a florist are not always planted in the kind of soil that the plant needs for the long term. The soil needs to be well drained, so get a good commercial soil mix with peat moss and sand. The soil should be kept moist but not soggy. However, allowing it to become too dry can cause the leaves to turn yellow. Many plants don't react well to water straight from the tap because of the chlorine, so let the water sit for 24 hours before watering your plant. The peace lily needs to be fed every 2-3 months with a diluted (half strength) balanced liquid fertilizer (20-20-20). Tip and root burn may be caused by overfeeding. Although the spathiphyllum will survive in low light, mine thrives and blooms much better in bright filtered light. Like all plants with large leaves, regular cleaning with a damp cloth helps its appearance. |
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Q - How do I get my amaryllis to bloom again? A - After the amaryllis has bloomed, cut off the flower stalk, put the plant in a sunny location, watering and feeding it once or twice a month. You want to produce healthy leaves since they provide the food for the bulb. If you prefer, you can plant the entire pot outside (after danger of frost is past) in a shady location for the summer. In September you should withhold water and place the bulb in a cool place (55° F) for 8-10 weeks. The bulb should be planted in a pot with adequate drainage containing a replenished mixture of peat and perlite, with 1/3 of the bulb above the top of the pot. Water the pot and keep it moist, being careful not to overwater. At this stage a temperature of 70-75°F and a window with southern exposure is ideal. Continue fertilizing. Voila! The cycle is complete. With proper care your bulb could last for years! |
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Q - I just bought a hanging basket of Ivy from Wal-mart. I have not had a lot of luck with Ivy, but I really like it. Is there anything special I should do for it or not do for it? Thanks A - I, too, am fond of ivy. It offers so many possibilities with varieties differing in leaf size, shape, and color. Then, too, the vines can be trained to cover wire shapes or it can cascade over the sides of the hanging container, making a beautiful hanging basket. Newly purchased plants look so attractive when you take them home. To keep them that way you need to know what their requirements are--water, light, temperature, etc. Ivies will grow in bright indirect light, but they do best where they get at least four hours of direct sunlight per day. The ideal temperatures for growing ivy are 50-55° at night and 68-72° during the day. Water the basket, but don't overwater; keep the soil barely moist. The plant will need to be fed every four months, but wait three or four month before you feed it for the first time. To encourage a fuller shape, pinch the stem tips occasionally. If you want to increase your ivy cache, these stem tips will root easily in a small container of water and eventually you'll have another pot of ivy. When the basket becomes overcrowded, repotting is necessary, using a packaged general purpose potting soil. As far as insects are concerned, always watch for spider mites, mealybugs, or white flies. |
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Q - I have had a rose bush next to our back deck for the last 4 or 5 years. I don't remember the type. It grows to be 6 to 7 feet tall. The leaves are always big and healthy looking. There are usually five leaves to each offshoot. The first year it bloomed all summer. It had a few blooms the second year, and hasn't bloomed at all since then. Sometimes we prune it back in the fall, sometimes we don't. We have fed it with the crystal rose food each spring and summer. We have NOT tried Miracle Grow for Roses. Do you think the Miracle Grow will help? Is it possible that the rose bush isn't capable of blooming again? We hate to remove the entire bush unless we know for sure that it won't be capable of blooming. Do you have any suggestions??? -- from L. K. A - The problem as I understand it is that the bush itself is healthy, but that it won't bloom. The sources I checked make me think that it has been getting too much fertilizer--especially nitrogen. Too much nitrogen can cause extra leaves and stems at the expense of blooms. According to the information available, a fertilizer with an analysis of 5-10-5 or 4-8-4 is recommended for roses. Fertilize rose bushes in early spring when the growth starts and again in early summer when flower buds have formed. The bulletin from Purdue states that roses should not be fertilized after July 31st in the southern part of Indiana, and not after July 15th in the northern part. Could your rose bush be getting nitrogen from other plants you may have fertilized that are growing close to it? Does the rose bush get enough sun? Roses need at least 6 hours of direct sun each day. Is it getting enough water? Roses like at least an inch of water per week during the growing season. Surely this year everything is getting enough water! Another possibility is that the soil pH is too low or too high. If the pH is not in the range of 6.0 to 6.8 (ideally 6.5) then nutrient uptake will be reduced, and the plant won't be getting the food it needs to produce flowers. I find it hard to believe that a healthy bush could never bloom again, so hang in there! Let me know how this turns out. Good luck! |
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Q - have a rose bush that was beautiful last year. This year it started out just fine, but a couple of weeks ago it started turning black at the base. Now one by one the limbs are turning black, the leaves fall off, and the limb dies. I keep cutting off the dead limbs, but I'm about to lose the whole bush. HELP! -- From P. R. A - Roses do indeed take special care! These particular rose bushes aren't the only one in the county that are in trouble. Our continued rain hasn't helped the situation! Although it would help to see a leaf or have more information, these rose bushes probably have severe black spot or rust, both of which are fungus diseases. Tea roses and climbers are susceptible to the fungus, although you can purchase varieties which are resistant to rust. In any event, the chemical triforine (trade name Funginex) and continued care should take care of either problem. Remove the diseased leaves and canes. Pruning healthy plants is urged to allow better air circulation and help control black spot. If you would like to read about roses and their problems, the following sites would be good ones. The first one shows pictures of results from some of the diseases..
Also there is a Purdue Cooperative Extension paper HO-128 which is available from the County Extension Agent. It costs $1.00 and is full of good information about roses. |
| Q - I got your address from your "GardenNet" web site. We are wondering if you could help with a question? We have transplanted several narcissus plants in a large planter about one week ago. Since then, they have grown enormously and have even recently begun to bloom. The only problem is is they are now all bending over the planter toward the floor. They are still very green, still in bloom, have plenty of moist and nourished soil, and receive a lot of afternoon sunlight. Do you have any ideas on what could be causing them to do this?
A - I assume you are talking about the paperwhite narcissus. They are such
a delight this time of year, and they certainly do perfume a room! I
don't know where you live, but I will also assume you are growing these bulbs inside. After the bulbs have been potted, they should be kept in
a cool room until the shoots are about two inches tall. Then you may put the pot in a warmer place. If they are started in a location that
is too warm, they will become leggy and droopy, just are you have described in your letter. There isn't anything you can do about these
bulbs now, and they will not bloom again. So discard them when the bloom is gone, and start over again. For continuous bloom, start pots |